Hidden attic dipole antenna installation

So it has been forever since I’ve posted anything, let alone made any serious attempts at “playing radio” so I figured that I should change that! I’ve had too many excuses not to get this project done; time to make good on a promise to myself.

Heliax cable (loose)

Heliax cable (loose)

A project which I’ve been meaning to complete for a very long time is to place a dipole antenna in the attic space of our house. This will provide me a means of reaching out to the world while I save my pennies and look for a good deal on a multi-band Yagi-Uda HF antenna (and possibly a different tower too).

One of the troubles with any antenna system is connecting the antenna to the radio (or vice versa depending on your stance). Many types of feed line are available, some with distinct advantages but they always come at a cost!

Having purchased what is usually a very expensive form of coax: Heliax, I wanted to finally make use of the cable. This is a perfect place to use such a specimen – I need to situate my transmitter some distance away from the eventual antenna location, so losses become an issue. This is where something like Heliax comes in handy.

When running the feed-line from my mechanical room to the attic, I wanted to offer physical protection for the coax. Using a conduit would accomplish this task as well as provide a future path for other cables to be run in the future.

Liquid tight conduit from mechanical room to attic

Liquid tight conduit from mechanical room to attic

I was fortunate enough to get my hands on quite a long piece of scrapped liquid tight flexible conduit. My original plan was to use PVC tubing, but the FR4 rated conduit which is a plastic coated metal armor (similar to BX wire) offered a much more elegant solution.

I installed the liquid tight conduit from my mechanical room to the attic of the house, fire-sealing all structural penetrations to ensure maximum safety while meeting code for electrical work (which is not technically required in this case, but is a best-practice approach).

Liquid tight conduit entering attic

Liquid tight conduit entering attic

Connector components laid out in reverse installation order

Connector components laid out in reverse installation order

With the conduit in place, the next step would be to run the feed line. In this case, I used a portion of the LDF2-50 (3/8″) Heliax cable I purchased back in Oct 2014.

The Heliax will allow me to have my shack virtually anywhere in the house while experiencing only 2.26dB of attenuation at 440MHz for every 100′ of cable and a measly 0.383dB per 100′ at 14MHz – talk about awesome for coaxial cable!!

Fishing the liquid tight conduit

Fishing the liquid tight conduit

Getting the Heliax cable through the conduit proved to be quite a challenge. I have fished large cables through conduit, etc many times but this proved to be particularly challenging as I was working alone.

Over the course of a few hours, I made a few trips up into the attic and then back into the basement, trying to pass the fish-tape through the conduit. Each time I would encounter a new challenge which would have my patience being tested. The worst part is that I knew that I should have passed the pull line through the conduit while it was on the ground and in a straight line.

Pull strings in buckets to keep from knotting up

Pull strings in buckets to keep from knotting up

Never the less, once I had the fish-tape through the conduit, I pulled two mule-tape pull strings through, one to be used as a reserve. To prevent the pull lines from becoming fouled with each other, I hand-fed them into separate buckets to act as a pull bag of sorts – this is a rock-climbing trick and it worked like a charm.

As it turned out, having two pull-lines in the conduit made it impossible to pull the Heliax. Doh! I could likely have managed if I were to use a conduit lube but I did not want to use such a product for a few reasons, personal preference being the primary consideration.

Fishing the liquid tight conduit

Fishing the liquid tight conduit

After much cursing and nearly a hernia from pulling so hard, I realized that I would have to pull both lines out and re-pull a single mule-tape instead. This meant another series of trips up to the attic and down to the basement – a routine which was getting old pretty quickly.

This was a perfect example of a project where having a second person helping would have cut the time by more than half. There are so many tasks that you take for granted when you have someone to help you – a project like this is a great way to remind yourself of some of those challenges which are overcome with assistance.

I would have asked my better half but she was kind enough to watch our newborn son while I spent hours alone in the attic and the basement.

Heliax cable on spool to pull through conduit

Heliax cable on spool to pull through conduit

When it came time to pull the Heliax, I ended up spooling it on a surplus wooden wire spool that I acquired (with the intention of turning it into furniture).

The spool was necessary because as I pulled the Heliax, it had a tendency to start kinking up and I would have to make many tens of trips to check the cable as I pulled. This was simply not acceptable and a better method had to be developed, hence the wire spool.

Spooling the cable was extremely helpful – I would recommend this to anyone attempting something similar.  I used a piece of 1/2″ black pipe to act as an axle and two tall automotive jack-stands to serve as a make-shift a-frame to hold the spool in place.

Heliax cable run for VHF/UHF to future tower

Heliax cable run for VHF/UHF to future tower

Once the feed-line was pulled through the conduit (which by the way would make even He-Man wince), I pulled enough slack to allow the cable to follow the ridge of the roof, all the way to the side of my garage.

This will be the future position of the Heliax feed-line once my tower is in place (presuming I do install it next to my garage).

For the current project, having the feed line above the antenna would cause all kinds of undesirable effects; one of which is a major distortion of the radiation pattern of the antenna.

Heliax run to garage side for future (tower) use

Heliax run to garage side for future (tower) use

I am not sure what I will be using for the feed-line for HF use in the future. I may very well use a pair of diplexers to take advantage of a single feed-line run. This is the lazy solution.

Being that I have more than enough Heliax to duplicate the same run, I may elect to run a second feed-line, taking the lessons I’ve learned from this exercise and applying them to any future work of this nature. This would allow for a multi-radio station without the worries associated with diplexer use: issues with guaranteeing at least 60dB of isolation between radios.

Dipole antenna balun / center

Dipole antenna balun / center

The dipole antenna I installed was cut roughly for 20m (14MHz) but the final tuning has not yet been performed, allowing for optimization for the in-situ configuration.

To facilitate installation, tuning, and future maintenance, the antenna supports were chosen to be ring-eyed lag bolts with pulleys attached. This method of connection would be more than strong enough for an antenna which will be protected from the harsh elements.

Antenna in place, looking over lived space

Antenna in place, looking over lived space

At either end of the dipole antenna, pulleys were once again used and lead weights tied to the supporting ropes to provide constant tension to the antenna system’s legs. Installing the antenna in such a manner will allow me to lower the middle section for tuning. In this case, the legs are shortened by loosening off the wire rope saddles and shortening the length of wire which attaches to the balun box.

It is possible to test-tune the antenna by folding the ends of the legs back on themselves but in my case, the antenna was built using copper weld wire and aircraft “anstad” type insulators which are apparently quite a pain in the butt to work with. I was advised by the gentleman who assembled this antenna that I would be best to tune from the middle so to speak. I picked this specimen up at the Carp Hamfest this past September as my G5RVjr did not hold up very well. I could certainly make an antenna but I tend to over-engineer things and don’t mind spending a little bit of money for something better built than I could manage with my limited parts.

Antenna in place, looking over lived space

Antenna in place, looking over lived space

For reasons of safety, I placed as much of antenna as possible away from the lived portion of the house. Canada’s Safety Code 6 outlines acceptable exposure limits for radio frequency radiation (at various frequencies) and it is important to consider safety when working within our hobby.

As you might see by reading over Safety Code 6, it does not take a whole lot of power to exceed the guidelines! Inverse square law and all, with an antenna less than 30 feet overhead, it is safe to say I would not be transmitting at very high power with this antenna system. My objective is low-power digital modes such as JT65 and QRSS.

Antenna in place, looking over lived space

Antenna in place, looking over lived space

The leg of the antenna which does intrude above the lived space does not penetrate very far (thankfully). All the same, such an antenna is most certainly a compromise and this needs to be considered when deciding on such an installation.

An attic installation was honestly not my first goal – it was born out of convenience and perhaps a bit of laziness. The whole project ended up being quite a bit more work than I had initially planned but I am glad to have it done.

Once the antenna was in place, I connected the feed line and fired up the spectrum analyzer so that I could have a quick peek at the return loss plot to check the resonant point of the antenna system now that it was in place. When an antenna is cut long, the resonant frequency will be lower than your anticipated frequency – this is extremely helpful knowledge when it comes time to make / tune an antenna.

Antenna in place, looking over lived space

Antenna in place, looking over lived space

As was expected, the resonant frequency was quite a bit lower than desired as the antenna legs were longer than the prescribed 16.63 feet for 14MHz (468 feet / 14.070 MHz / 2 = 16.63). This equation is only a jumping off point – it can not calculate the exact lengths needed for your installation as it does not consider the many interactions the antenna system has with its surroundings.

In the interim, I will be using my MFJ-902 travel tuner to provide a 50Ω impedance match from antenna system to the radio (FT-857D). This again is a compromise (for now) and will result in less than ideal performance but hey – at least I will be able to transmit now!!

 

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A future radio amateur is born ..

On Nov 24th my wife Julie and I delivered our first child (Felix) at home. It was quite a unique experience as we had not planned on delivering at home, however, Felix’s arrival was uncomplicated and very welcome.

Felix Marsden Buck

Felix Marsden Buck

Everyone is healthy and I look forward to sharing the magic of radio with the little guy. Turns out that the cosmic noise of the solar system as heard on a HT makes a great “white noise” generator!

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Heliax Cable

Back in October, I acquired 250 feet (~75m) of LDF2-50 (3/8″) Heliax cable for approximately $150. The cable also came with 9 x 41PW connectors which sadly are of no use to me presently as they are for the more common 1/4″ Heliax. The price of the 41PW connectors alone is higher than what I paid for the lot, so perhaps I will try to recover some of my funds by selling some of the less useful (to me) items.

250' of Heliax

250′ of Heliax

LT2NM-PL N-type Connector

LT2NM-PL N-type Connector

Connectors for the LDF2 cable which I acquired are not cheap, they cost $20/ea and are generally only of the “N” type (to maintain low-loss / constant impedance characteristics). I picked up four connectors to work with – saving two for future use.

The model number I purchased was: L2TNM-PL which is the so-called positive lock model. The connectors are large and heavy, hopefully their quality matches the aesthetic of the connectors.

Connector components

Connector components

Installation of these N-type connectors does not rely on soldering in any manner, instead, the connection is made via tight physical tolerances. There are some really nifty cable preparation tools available for the various sizes of Heliax, though as I am performing a limited amount of cable work, I opted to use a good sharp knife and some sand paper in lieu of fancy tools.

Heliax cable end cut

Heliax cable end cut

The instructions which come with the connectors indicate the lengths of the cable components required, including the number of “ridges” in the bond to expose. The first step is to cut the cable with a fine-tooth hack-saw, ensuring the end is as close to square as possible.

If you try to use a clamping cutter (i.e. linesman pliers) you may not be able to save the shield (bond) of the cable.

Removing polyethylene sheath

Removing polyethylene sheath

The first step is to remove a portion of the polyethylene sheathing from the cable. This is a simple operation which only requires you to cut a ring around the cable just deep enough to touch the copper shield.

Be sure to make this “ring cut” at the top of one of the shield’s ridges. This is explained in the instructions which come with the connector(s).

Lognitudinal cut of sheath

Longitudinal cut of sheath

Next, make a longitudinal cut to begin peeling back the sheath, exposing the beautiful heavy copper shielding beneath.

Again, try not to cut too deep – I scored the length a few times, peeling the polyethylene sheath back as it became possible. The goal is to avoid scoring the copper shield if at all possible.

A good sharp knife is a must for this!

Cable end prepared for connector

Cable end prepared for connector

Once the copper shield is exposed, the copper shield can be cut back to the specified length. This portion of the work was too difficult to document well (read: I was too lazy to set up the camera with interval shots, etc) so it will not be shown.

What you are looking to achieve is the removal of a small portion of the copper shield from the end of the cable. I simply scored the copper shield with a sharp knife, then I used a pair of side-cutters to nip away the copper, peeling it like a tin can, using the scored line to prevent removal of too much shield.

Connector components laid out in reverse installation order

Connector components laid out in reverse installation order

If the center conductor is too long, you can simply file it down (or sand it in my case) to match the specified length.

The actual installation of the connector components is extremely simple. The only trick would be to torque the connector to the specified value. I opted to go with just a snug fit for now – perhaps I will get out the old torque wrench to check the installation.

I hooked up the Heliax cable (all 250′) to my spectrum analyzer and found that the cable loss over the length is well within specifications (I saw just over 10db at 1.5GHz). I look forward to being able to use this extremely low-loss coax in the (hopefully) near future. This cable will allow me to situate my ham shack nearly anywhere in my house and still make it out to a modest tower.

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APRS / packet radio / TNC fun

Hi all,

I’ve had a crazy summer so far, and as a result I’ve had little time for tinkering and ham radio. Despite this fact, I’ve managed to acquire a new (to me) piece of kit: a Timewave DSP-232+ DSP radio modem.

DSP-232+ TNC / Radio Modem

DSP-232+ TNC / Radio Modem

I purchased this unit from Rob (VE3???) for a decent price – a little more than a standard stand-alone TNC, but this puppy can do Pactor and Amtor as well as a number of other functions.

The unit came with a USB-mini-b module already built-in which is pretty slick. I then proceeded to let the magic smoke out of it. The original “upgrade” is a U232 board from Timewave and carries a price tag of $70. Ouch! I know of a $20 solution – see below.

I wanted to ‘scope the output of the TNC so I hooked my trusty DS2202 up to the TX channel of “Radio 1”. Following best practices, I also connected the ground lead of the scope probe to the ground plane of the DSP-232+ which is what killed the USB to serial converter. A post-mortem of the situation revealed  that my Kenwood PS-30 power supply is happily producing 60Vac on both the (+) and (-) leads [reference to ground]. Not good.

RS232 to USB adapter module.

RS232 to USB adapter module.

To remedy the situation, I finally ordered a DB9-USB-F from Digikey. I spoke of this before in a prior blog posting, and I can say that this little unit is fantastic! You must be sure to order the correct module as it is offered in three flavours: RS232 levels (± 15v), TTL (5v) and 3v3 levels and two “pinouts”: male / female. In my case, I ordered the female RS232 level version as the pinout matched the schematic diagram of my DSP-232+. Installation was simple and the module performs very well.

To interface the DSP-232+ to my Yaesu FT-857D I had to fabricate a cable which is a male 5-pin DIN connector to a 6-pin mini-DIN connector. Referring to the manual, I made the appropriate connections.

Inline soldering using hook method of joining wires.

Inline soldering using hook method of joining wires.

To make the solder joint as small as possible, I use a method where I first tin the tips of the exposed wires, allowing me to form a solid “j” hook on each end. I then slide a piece of hear-shrink tubing on all of the wires, except for the one which will be the ground. Notice that in the photo, I’ve split the original insulation on the beige cord – this will allow me to slide the heat-shrink tubing away from the solder joint, but to re-envelop the wires after soldering.

Heat shrink detail

Heat shrink detail

I like to use clear heat-shrink tubing on my solder joints to ensure good visual inspections – this is however just a personal preference. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve finished a solder job like this only to discover that I forgot the last layer of heat-shrink tubing. I make a point of placing a length of tubing over one of the wires as soon as I’ve cut it, ensuring that I will be able to neatly finish the job every time.

Completed cable union

Completed cable union

Once all of the joints are complete, and the cable has been tested, I finish the splice by slipping the outer tube over the entire splice and shrink it down. In this case, it would have been nice to use a glue-lined (some times referred to as double-wall) heat shrink to add some mechanical rigidity. This is not strictly necessary but is advised for situations where vibration or other repetitive mechanical stresses may be present.

Notice how the diameter of the completed splice is only slightly larger than the smallest cable. This method leaves a really nice professional appearance.

In the end, I’ve got my DSP-232+ working nicely, pulling in APRS packets with ease. There are a ton of features in this unit – many of which will require some good-old manual time. Once I’ve got some good operating experience with this unit, I will be sure to post my thoughts. First I need to repair / replace my darn power supply – there should never be any AC on the DC outputs – this is most definitely a concern. Until then, I am operating my radio on battery power for testing purposes.

More to follow …

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