More on the mobile install …

So I managed to sneak in a little bit more work on the mobile install the other day, and here are some of the things I did:

  • cut 5/8 and 1/4 wave whips for 2m
  • fabricate new mount for NMO mount system
  • piece together a temporary mount system for ATAS-120A HF antenna
  • make stereo jack switch face plate for radio audio-to-vehicle audio junction
First antenna position

First antenna position

I started by cutting the 5/8 whip to find the lowest SWR at both 144.000MHz and 148.000MHz. The idea is that SWR will generally be at its lowest somewhere in the middle of a band such as 2m and so you are trying to balance the SWR at the band edges. Put another way, you want the low and high portions of the frequency range you are using to have as close to the same SWR as possible.

 

Lower mounting location

Lower mounting location

When I first tested the whip, I noticed that the SWR was very small on the low portion of the band and fairly large on the high portion of the band. This told me (from antenna theory) that high frequency = short antenna, thus a high SWR at a high frequency suggests a poor match because the antenna was too long. I tuned the antenna by cutting 1/4″ sections from the bottom of the whip and testing SWR at 144 and 148 MHz each time. To test, I set the radio power down to 5W (minimum) and briefly transmitted (FM) “VE3BUX test” while watching the SWR. I managed to achieve a nice low SWR at the band edges and a barely measurable SWR in the middle of 2m.

5/8 whip antenna

5/8 whip antenna

After cutting my 5/8 whip and confirming that the 1/4 wave whip was okay, I decided to fabricate a mount for a position lower on the vehicle – at the upper hinge for the rear door. I chose this location because while up high on the vehicle is great for radiation pattern, etc, it was not okay for apartment living (more specifically, having to park underground where our roof-rack only clears the ceiling by mere inches. I learned quickly that the FJ would look like a bumper car at the fair unless either: a) I removed the antenna prior to parking underground or b) mounted the 1/4 whip lower (for while in the city).

Audio jack face plate

Audio jack face plate

The next thing on my to-do list was to install the 3.5mm audio jack face plate I had put together to link the radio’s audio output to the FJ’s axillary audio input which will allow me to hear the radio over the vehicle’s speakers. I bridged the left and right audio channels since the output from the FT-857D is mono anyways.

 

3.5mm audio jack in switch console

3.5mm audio jack in switch console

This is what the audio face-plate looks like in its position. I will be making a short jumper cable with 90-degree elbows to link the radio audio out to the auxiliary input. I plan to use a hard-line to do the linking so I’ll post more once I have started that project.

Lastly, I snapped a picture of the radio in its mounting location. I have learned that it is not as easy as I had hoped to remove the radio from its current location – it looks like a second version of the mounting platform will be necessary to achieve the ergonomics I had in mind. I will be sure to keep everyone updated on what changes I made to the mounting location to facilitate the installation and removal of the radio.

Radio in position

Radio in position

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Mobile (FJ Cruiser) amateur radio install

So it has been two days of disassembling, designing, cutting, welding, test fitting, soldering, painting, you get the idea…

Although I quite enjoy custom fabrication work, sometimes I just want to fast-forward to the results portion of a project. This time was no exception.
The struggle with this installation was to keep the quality of work top-notch and to use the available space in the most effective way possible. While there is plenty of cargo room and cabin space in an FJ Cruiser, I thought it best to keep the radio portion hidden as much as possible. By installing the radio in a stealth manner, I hope to minimize the visual impact of the mobile station, and to mitigate any risk of physical damage to the components.

Driver's side rear section

Driver

After dismantling the interior of my vehicle, the first step was to determine the mounting locations of the various station components. Here is a view of the rear cargo area of an FJ Cruiser without the interior panels in place. As you may notice, there are large voids over the wheel wells – though they are tempting mounting locations for the radio, I wanted to have access to the body so that it could be removed without having to dismantle the vehicle.

Passenger's side rear section

Passenger

The passenger’s side (as pictured to the right) boasts a 100/400W inverter and the associated power receptacle (installed in the interior trim). This will be the power-distribution side of the vehicle since it is already a source for 110V. It is my intention to add additional circuits in this location.

My layout is as follows:

  • radio body: driver’s side rear “C pillar” cargo void
  • control head: front console, below drive-line and accessory switches
  • power source: 0-gauge supply wire, 4-gauge ground direct to auxiliary battery
  • NMO mount VHF antenna mount: rear door lip-mount on driver’s side
  • control cables: run along driver’s side door sill / kick panel
0-gauge power cable

0-gauge power cable

I ran 0-gauge power cable from the auxiliary battery (from my custom dual battery install) to the passenger side “C pillar” since I intend to use that location as the power distribution hub for future projects (ie. 1000W inverter, 12v fridge/freezer, etc). The stock 100/400W inverter location makes an ideal location for adding accessory circuits and this swayed my decision to distribute the power on this side. Also, the auxiliary battery is on the passenger side of the engine bay, so this location reduces the wire-length by 4 feet.

Auxiliary battery

Auxiliary battery

Battery bracket

Battery bracket

Power distribution bracket

Power distribution bracket

Radio bracket

Radio bracket

Power & ground

Power & ground

Fuse block

Fuse block

Radio in position

Radio in position

What took the most time was definitely making the custom brackets / mounting hardware that I am using in my install. I still have to fabricate a mounting structure for the control-head of the radio. This will be done in the near future. I custom made my bracketry to mount the radio body in a way that will allow me to remove it from the vehicle to operate /P or at my home when desired. The mounting position also considered heat dissipation and connector ergonomics, which greatly increased the difficulty of the installation.

Samurai winch bumper

Samurai winch bumper

I am fortunate to have access to an excellent MIG welder which is owned by my brother Geoff. Such equipment has made many, many custom projects possible for me – including an indestructible winch bumper for my 1985 Suzuki Samurai rock-crawler. To undertake this project without access to welding equipment would have made for an extremely frustrating (and likely poor quality) installation.

Switch console

Switch console

Control cable along door sill

Control cable along door sill

Control cable

Control cable

The wires poking sloppily out of the switch console are a temporary nuisance. I am working on making an RJ-45 jack face-plate and a speaker extension (3.5mm audio jack) face plate. The speaker extension is easy, its the RJ-45 plug that will be a challenge. I may have to bottom-up fabricate the face plate using short-hair fiberglass or moldable epoxy.

My plan as it stands is to test the station setup under various conditions for sources of noise. I already know that I need to add grounding straps to a myriad locations, which should include:

  • hood
  • roof rack
  • rear door
  • exhaust system
  • engine block
Temporary antenna installation

Temporary antenna installation

 

My antenna is mounted strictly on a temporary basis until I decide how I will mount a more permanent solution. I used adhesive-backed cabling “saddles” (which can be found at most electronics supply stores) to secure the cable in its temporary position.

 

It is my intention to fabricate an electrical tilt up/down antenna mount to facilitate parking in low-clearance areas without the need to remove the antenna(s). This is a future project and will require sourcing a linear actuator which is waterproof (read: costly). Ideally, a single linear actuator will raise and lower two antenna systems:

  • VHF/UHF antenna
  • ATAS-120A HF antenna

I also plan to make an SO-239 to 3/8″ adapter to run an NVIS antenna using a 66′ length of wire attached to the center post of the 3/8″ mount. This idea was first described to me by Bob (VA3QV) and I am excited to try it out portable some time in the near future.

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Adding /M to my portfolio

At the Carp hamfest (put on by the OARC) I picked up some materials which will allow me to operate mobile with my current station.
On the list of purchases was:

  • 5/8 wave 2m antenna (NMO mount)
  • 1/4 wave 2m antenna (NMO mount)
  • truck mirror NMO antenna mounting bracket with cable (PL-259 connector)
  • separation kit for FT-857D (YSK-857)
  • silver plated, teflon insulated PL-259 connectors (w/ adapters for RG-58)

With the above supplies, I will be installing the FT-857D in a 2007 FJ Cruiser. My objective is to install the radio in a protected region of the rear cargo area. There is a covered storage area in the rear which fits the radio body nicely – I just have to make a few modifications to the mounting location (ie. adding ventilation) to make the spot work. I will also have to fabricate a mounting bracket to hold the radio itself. The requirements for the mounting location of the radio body are:

  • protected from camping equipment while off-roading
  • easily to mount / dismount
  • good access to power and control cables

The control head itself will be another story! I am having a hard time deciding where I will end up putting the control head for the radio. I think that in order to achieve the best balance of ergonomics and aesthetics, I will leave this as the final portion of the install. This seems counter intuitive as it would be easier perhaps to know where everything is meant to go first, however, I am able to leave enough slack on the control cables to permit me to move the control head virtually anywhere in reach of the driver.

Well, that is my plan – I’ll let you know how it pans out later as I intend to start the install today.

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Carp ham fest 2011

It seems that this blog post never actually got published on the day-of so I am re-releasing it but under the correct date.

This morning started at 6:00am when I eagerly left my apartment, destined for the Carp fair ground where I planned to meet with Larry (VE2DO) who is a very knowledgeable (and friendly) ham that I me at the Iroquois and Montreal West Island ham fests earlier in the year.

At 7:30 I was helping Larry unload his wares and managed to get a sneak peak at some of the equipment that other hams have amassed over the years. What is apparent in this hobby is that it is easy to accumulate lots of .. well .. questionably useful stuff. don’t get me wrong, there is probably a use for most of the stuff one could find at at ham fest, however as Larry pointed out, much of what people have on display often has very little value or usefulness.

Once the ham fest was officially underway, I watched to see how Larry stalked the deals. I tell you, the best thing you can do as a new ham is to watch and learn!

With some help from Larry, I managed to acquire a Kenwood 30A power supply for a steal at $35 – wow! What was really nice is that a medium-duty power supply was on my wish list and I managed to cross that off for only $35 as opposed to nearly $200 for a modern switching p/s.

Also on my list of purchases were:

  • Kenwood 30A power supply with modular plug & 2 power-pole connectors
  • YSK-857 separation kit for my FT-857D
  • 4 “egg” insulators for antenna projects
  • 2 “end strain” ceramic insulators
  • 10 silver plated, teflon PL-259 connectors
  • 5 silver plated RG58 adapters
  • 2x NMO mount mobile antenna mount assemblies
  • 5/8 and 1/4 wave VHF antenna (2m only)
  • dual-band magnetic mount UHF/VHF antenna for “base operation”

All said and done, I spent only a little over $200 which is quite good considering the equipment I now have.

I was really hoping to find a steal of a deal for a CW iambic key anda cross-needle SWR meter. I almost grabbed a CW key that Ante (VE2BBW) recommended however by the time I decided to go for it, the darn thing was gone. I was a bit hesitant due to its aesthetic properties, however, I am sure it would have served its purpose well.

I did not stay too long at the ham fest as I was suffering from a fairly serious bout of poison ivy, so I was glad to get home and into a scalding hot shower for some itch relief.

I look forward to my next ham fest – hopefully one soon. I heard of one in Kingston in October. I doubt that I will be able to make that one, however, I remain optimistic.

Of the attendees, I managed to have some great conversations with the following hams:

  • Larry, VE2DO
  • Ernie, VE3EJJ
  • Bob, VA3QV
  • Ante, VE2BBW
  • Glen, VE3XRA
  • Guylène, VA3GLN
  • Guy, VE3VCF
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